4 años de Muévete en Bici ¡Tendremos una gran fiesta artística y cultural!
| Movilidad |
| Escrito por Redacción Onda Verde |
| Martes, 10 de Mayo de 2011 17:30 |
The return of Mexico’s national nectar
03 May 2011 | By Daniel C Schechter, Lonely Planet
To the crowd of young Mexicans carrying on behind the swinging doors of a pulque parlour one Saturday afternoon, participating in a cultural revival is perhaps the last thing on their minds. They are simply basking in the humble camaraderie of that uniquely Mexican institution, the pulquería. Frida Kahlo, an early post-modernist who embraced indigenous kitsch, would approve.
Pulqueria menu No drink is more Mexican than pulque - not even tequila or mezcal. (Daniel Schechter/LPI)No drink is more Mexican than pulque, not even tequila or mescal. Pulque has been consumed by Mexicans since Aztec times and no fewer than four Aztec deities are devoted to the beverage. Though it is made from the same plant as tequila (the magical maguey), pulque is not distilled.
Sometimes called drool, Babylon, bear soup, vulture soup, white face, moustache broth, chalk and nectar of the gods, pulque is the sort of drink you have to learn to like, if only because you have never tasted anything like it before. In its natural state, the white, viscous liquid slides down your gullet with an earthy tang. Not a strong drink, it has an alcohol content similar to that of beer and some even say it has healthful properties. “Pulque is a step away from meat” on the nutritional scale, said Arturo Garrido, the kindly proprietor of Pulquería Las Duelistas as he dispenses a greenish version of the beverage into a couple of tall mugs.
Pulque is a private quaff, an old-fashioned one at that, and it remains largely unknown to the public palate. You will not find it in the nightclubs of Mexico City or even in cantinas. Of the 70 or so pulquerías that remain in Mexico City, most are extremely rustic places with bathroom-tile facades and institutional green interiors. Sporting sassy names like The National Nectar, Ancient Rome, The Hen of the Golden Eggs, Firing Line, The Worst Is Nothing and Men Without Fear, most of these dives are patronised by a handful of elderly men who tote their own containers to be filled. But in certain pulquerías that demographic is changing. Mexican youth have collectively rediscovered the virtues of pulque and the happy, scruffy vibe of the pulquerías.
One such rediscovery is Pulquería La Risa (Mesones 75). Housed in a tiny colonial structure on the south end of the city’s historic core, La Risa retains its rustic, minimally hygienic ambience, with a urinal behind a greasy curtain. But it has been adopted by students who engage in intellectual pursuits like playing chess or reading history as they sip their pulque. Sitting on a shelf above the bar are barrel-shaped urns of the drink in an array of colours, like sweets in a candy shop. Old timers generally like their pulque straight up but to make the beverage somewhat more palatable, most pulquerías “cure” their pulque with various natural flavours, and the resulting milkshake-like concoctions are called “curados”. The menu may include such flavours as tamarind, guava, walnut and strawberry, and from time to time, beet (“for the heart”) and celery (“for diabetes”) make an appearance.
Most popular with the pulque renegades is Las Duelistas (Aranda 30), near the San Juan market. Going for at least 90 years, it has undergone a startling makeover. Walls and ceiling are covered with psychedelic pre-Hispanic imagery: maguey plants, Aztec gods and goddesses, plumed serpents and skull racks. On any given afternoon, pierced, black-clad youth crowd around tables sharing mugs of pulque from pink and blue plastic buckets. A row of painted barrels, delivered earlier that day from Hidalgo, stand behind the marble counter, where a few older patrons sit, lifting mugs of pure pulque to their lips. The jukebox plays rock en español at a tolerable volume. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than aggressive.
“Many identify pulque with the climate of camaraderie of the pulquerías,” said Alberto Felipe Ramírez Aldama, who belongs to a group of pulque enthusiasts devoted to finding and trying out pulquerías. “One is nourished there. You have your buddies, and your enemies too, but no one causes any trouble with a glass full of octli,” he said, using a pre-Hispanic term for the drink. Ramírez Aldama’s group, Colectivo El Tinacal, also organises tours of Mexico City’s pulquerías, and visitors are welcome to join them. Information about upcoming pulque tours is posted on http://pulquenuestro.blogspot.com.
The pulque resurgence has spilled over to a few bars. Bósforo (Luis Moya 31, at Independencia), located a block south of the Alameda Central, is an earth-toned lounge that embraces mexicanismo. In addition to such iconic items as mescal — another previously disdained drink that is regaining cachet — and toasted grasshoppers, they keep an urn of pulque behind the counter. Revueltas, the tall, pony-tailed owner, makes a mean peanut curado. Having graduated from the grunge, pulque seems poised for broader acceptance.
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© 2011 Lonely Planet. All rights reserved. The article ‘The return of Mexico’s national nectar’ was published in partnership with Lonely Planet.
The article was taken from: http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20110429-return-of-the-national-nectar?OCID=twtvl
WK in Mexico City
Here’s a video of the street artist WK putting his work up on a large wall in Mexico City.
Mexico City: the world’s most under-rated city?
I don’t know what I had expected from Mexico City. It was our final stop on our six week tour of Central America, and as such one of the few immovable objects in our plans. Yet I knew precious little about the place. The most populous city in the western hemisphere (depending on what arbitrary basis you choose to divide our world); a city that lives atop one of our planet’s most unstable fault lines; and yes, a place with a reputation for uncompromisingly mean streets. That was about the full extent of my knowledge. And as Lonely Planet decided that Central America does not extend beyond the southernmost Mexican states my guidebook was by now little more than a brick in the bottom of my rucksack.
We arrived in Mexico travel weary and without the inclination to be blown away by yet another new city, a new set of churches and yet more grand relics of colonial or pre-colonial days. Yet Mexico did manage to impress; in fact, more than that it surprised us to such an extent that it was quickly installed as one of the highlights of our trip.
World Class Architecture
The sheer scale of the architecture on display in Mexico is astounding. The Palace of Bellas Artes (across the road from our hotel) made a striking landmark, more so in the late afternoon when the setting sun cast its orange light on the giant onion dome.
The Torre Latinoamericana, Mexico’s original skyscraper, had clearly seen better days yet even now it dwarfs the surrounding buildings and can be seen from most places in the city. And in a city that has a serious sinking problem that is causing most buildings to lean at Pisa-esque angles it’s one of the few buildings in the city that’s still reassuringly straight. A ride to the restaurant and little museum at the top will cost you 60 pesos ($5).
It’s not only the external street views that are impressive. Perhaps our biggest gasp of admiration came when we entered the main central Post Office (Correo Mayor). To see the ornate stairwells and the grand elevator was to see at first hand the ambition, power and confidence that the powers of Mexico displayed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Around every corner is yet another splendid church, a bohemian square or a dilapidated relic of Mexico’s colourful past. And the museums are by all accounts superb. We were keen to visit the highly rated National Museum of Anthropology. Sadly due to some spectacularly bad planning we’d set aside our only full day in the city as a Monday, when pretty much no museum is open; be warned.
As for the city’s dangerous reputation? In daylight the central of the city is filled with working people mixed in with a few quirky characters; much like any other city in fact. Of course at night things change, and while the main pedestrian thoroughfare (Av. Madero) remains busy until its shops and surrounding restaurants shut their doors, in much of the city the pavements do empty and walking is not recommended.
Our Lady of Guadelupe
While Mexico City is full of grand churches and some of the world’s finest museums there are also many reasons to head out of the centre. Fortunately the excellent public transport system makes this very easy and cheap to do. A trip to the shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe is a short metro ride north of the centre. This is considered by many to be the holiest religious site in the Americas and it was here that a lowly farmer saw an apparition of the Virgin Mary in the 16th century.
There are now several churches and chapels at the site, as well as the original picture to which pilgrims come to pray. You’ll also find a giant bronze statue of Pope John Paul 2 alongside his popemobile. Souvenir shops are everywhere.
Teotihuacan
Teotihuacan is a hugely impressive Aztec site around 50km north of Mexico. Famed for its two giant pyramids, the 3km walk along the Avenue of the Dead that runs through the site is best done away from the midday heat. Be prepared for the persistent attentions of the hawkers as you make your way through the complex of ancient temples and dwellings.
Even after visiting half a dozen Mayan sites before reaching Mexico, Teotihuacan still made a strong impression and is highly recommended. It is a one hour bus ride from the northern bus station.
Coyoacan
On our final day we took the subway south to the leafy suburb of Coyoacan. Its wide open plaza and laid back vibe was reminiscent of a small French provincial town. The houses in the nearby streets were clearly inhabited by the well heeled end of Mexico’s population, with nannies and dog walkers appearing and disappearing from houses while the joggers out in the park rushed past us with the latest i-gadgets, blocking out the sounds of their small green dot in the otherwise endless urban sprawl.
Along with many other tourists we’d come to Coyoacan on the trail of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Having seen the movie Frida just before we left home (if you’re going to Mexico City, the only piece of advice I’d give is to watch it before you go; seriously) we had already visited the museum housing one of Diego Rivera’s murals the day before. We now came to see Frida’s famous Blue House where she’d spent much of her childhood and where she passed away.
The house is now an excellent museum telling the story of Frida’s life and showing much of her work, and the audio guide on offer is unusually good. It leaves you in no doubt that Ms Kahlo led one of the most troubled lives that you could imagine anyone having the misfortune to experience.
Article taken from: http://www.501places.com/2011/03/mexico-city-the-worlds-most-under-rated-city/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=twitter&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+501places%2FtTer+%28501+Places%29
Luxury Travel: Experiencing Mexico City
Feb 2, 2011 Ashanti Altovese Griffin
When the travel bug hits you, the only thing to do is to get away and the beautiful countries of Latin America are wonderful places to consider. Mexico in particular is a large country with a variety of natural environments, history of ancient cultures, and filled with the warmth of their people. With so much to offer, Mexico and its many cities along the Pacific are popular tourist destinations for people looking to enjoy pleasant weather in a land of open arms and hearts. To gain access to the center of Mexico’s past, present, and future, visitors should look to explore Mexico City and some of its exciting attractions like that of Xochimilco, Teotihuacan, and Chapultepec Castle.
Mexico City Attractions: Xochimilco
Xochimilco is considered by locals as the “Venice of Mexico”. Visitors can float on one of its many water canals on beautifully painted boats that allow you to sit back and relax. In ancient times, Xochimilco was filled with floating gardens called chinampas that provided the community with fruits, vegetables, and other food items for agricultural production. Now, visitors can rent a boat by the hour and observe native birds, plants, and aquatic animals as they float along while eating quesadillas or drinking apple soda in the Mexican sunshine. Boat rental costs about $20 US dollars per hour and is good for up to fifteen people at a time. This attraction is located in the southern part of Mexico City.
Mexico City Attractions: Teotihuacan
Teotihuacan is the must see archeological site for learning about the ancient civilization of the Meso-American people of central Mexico. Dozens of pyramids make up the collection of temples, dwellings, and religious grounds of the site. The famous Avenue of the Dead is the main street of the site and the Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramid of the Moon, and other buildings give visitors insight into the daily life of people at the site. In addition to walking through the grounds, you can learn more about the people of Teotihuacan at a museum which showcases an aerial view model of the ruins along with ancient artifacts found there. Vendors sell their souvenirs to those looking to take home a piece of Mexico through key chains, crystals, blankets and more. This attraction is located in the northeastern part of the outskirts of Mexico City.
Mexico City Attractions: Chapultepec Castle
Chapultepec Castle is a gorgeous structure that has housed some of Mexico City’s most prestigious government officials. Visitors can walk throughout the facility to learn about the icons that shaped Mexico into the metropolis it is today. Located on the top of Chapultepec Hill, the castle is open from Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00a.m. to 4:30p.m. Around the castle are gardens that can also be enjoyed by visitors. If you like history, Chapultepec Castle is the perfect location to get lost in the adventure of Mexico’s kings, armies, and rulers of old.
Read more at Suite101: Luxury Travel: Experiencing Mexico City http://www.suite101.com/content/luxury-travel-experiencing-mexico-city-a342126#ixzz1Ff4awRQx
Mexico City: Hiking Mecca?
Climbing Ayoloco glacier on 17,126-foot Iztaccíhuatl, a two-hour drive from Mexico City. While the mountain does not demand much technical skill, its sheer altitude should be taken seriously
By MICHAEL E. MILLER
Published: February 4, 2011
“WHO knew that this was here?” said Alejandro Escalante, a young businessman from Mexico City, his suit jacket flapping like a flag in the wind. Above us loomed the serrated edge of Nevado de Toluca, a 15,000-foot-high extinct volcano an hour’s drive and a short hike from the Mexican capital. From deep within its crater, two shallow emerald lakes reflected patches of snow that, by last spring, still stubbornly clung to the mountain’s broad shoulders.
Twenty-five years ago, few could have answered Mr. Escalante’s question in the affirmative. In the 1980s, residents of the teeming capital nearly forgot the mountains existed. So thick was the haze encircling Mexico City that some of the tallest peaks on the continent virtually disappeared.
No longer. The mountains surrounding the megalopolis are back, both in view and on travel itineraries. Cleaner air, better roads and a growing middle class have boosted mountain climbing in central Mexico, and hikers are starting to take notice. “Famous climbers come here to start their careers or to train for other mountains,” Mario Andrade, a veteran guide, told me. “Nowadays the reputation of our mountains is widespread and growing fast.”
Still, while increasingly popular among Mexicans and foreign climbers training for the Himalayas, they are almost unknown to the millions of foreign tourists who visit the country each year.
And so, after living in Mexico City for a year, I prepared my backpack, dug out my boots, and set myself a 10-day goal of hiking a trio of the tallest mountains within a day’s trip of downtown: El Ajusco (12,894 feet), Nevado de Toluca (15,354 feet) and Iztaccíhuatl (17,126 feet).
Like most journeys in Mexico, mine began near the city center: the bustling heart of what Mexicans lovingly call el monstruo (the monster).
I met a group of friends in the subway, and we headed south toward Ajusco, a peak rising from the edge of the city like a lookout tower. At the last stop of the train we caught a cab, which — in about 30 minutes — took us the remaining miles to the base of the mountain, past roadside roast chicken stands, paintball courses and patchy soccer fields.
After our taxi dropped us at the side of the road near a final, lonely restaurant, we headed straight up the slope, through light forest and over an irrigation ditch, until we eventually stumbled onto a well-worn path. I had chosen Ajusco as a warm-up for more demanding hikes, but its sheer elevation and sweeping vistas are still more than enough to take your breath away. After a fairly easy two-hour ascent that wound its way around the mountain like a corkscrew, we stood atop a narrow rock ledge named El Pico del Águila, or Eagle’s Peak.
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Omar Torres/Agence France-Presse – Getty Images
Ascending snow-capped Ajusco volcano, on the outskirts of Mexico City, is a popular day trip for hikers. |
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Looking down, we saw the city wrapped around us like an enormous sleeping dog. We and several dozen other day-trippers rested near a series of metal crosses, sucking in the thin, cool air. (At nearly 13,000 feet, Ajusco is considerably higher than Mexico City, itself already more than 7,000 feet above sea level.)
A few days later, my legs fully recuperated from the Ajusco hike, I met a friend at Mexico City’s western bus station. Our aim: to climb Nevado de Toluca as a final preparation for Iztaccíhuatl, the eighth highest mountain in North America. We arrived in Toluca in little more than an hour and haggled with a taxi to take us the remaining 45 minutes to the base of the mountain. The cab bounced along a switchback dirt road before dropping us off at the entrance to the park. An old man waved us in the direction of the peak, promising that we could not miss the path to the top.
We followed a faint trail through the forest, as small birds and squirrels flitted in front of us like spirits. A forest fire several months earlier had left large swaths of undergrowth charred and stunted, and small yellow flowers and saplings sporadically broke through the black crust. After half an hour of gradual hiking, we reached the tree line. Suddenly, Nevado’s summit, Friar’s Peak, stared down at us, more than a mile above the city of Toluca behind us. Under its watchful eye, we hiked along a dirt road around the mountain to the Posada Familiar where, on weekends, visitors can camp or cook a hot meal for a fee of a few dollars.
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Although Ajusco is the most popular hike near Mexico City, Nevado de Toluca is not far behind. One reason is that it is only as difficult as hikers make it. Many Mexicans, including Mr. Escalante, the Mexico City businessman, drive all the way up to the posada, park their cars and walk only the steep half-mile up to its volcanic crater. From there, its twin lagoons — Lake of the Sun and Lake of the Moon — shine like turquoise jewels against the red and gray rock surrounding them. Against the backdrop of its austerely beautiful serrated crater rim, this place seems farther away from the chaotic capital than New York or Miami ever could.
A week later, I rode another bus an hour and a half southeast of the capital to Amecameca, the launching pad for ascents of Iztaccíhuatl. Because of the climb’s increased difficulty and greater risk of altitude sickness I hired a guide, Alberto Buendía, who picked me up at the bus station in his truck.
We barreled past fields of corn and agave, through thick forest and past old women selling quesadillas until we reached El Paso de Cortés, the saddle between Iztaccíhuatl and the still-active volcano Popocatépetl.
Unlike Ajusco or Nevado de Toluca, both of which can be trekked in half a day, Iztaccíhuatl is a two-day hike. And while it does not demand much technical skill, its sheer altitude should be taken seriously. At more than 17,000 feet above sea level, it is nearly two miles above the already nosebleed-high Mexico City and taller than either the Rockies or Sierra Nevadas. Altitude sickness often forces unprepared visitors to cut their hikes short. Even the mountain’s name is ominous. Iztaccíhuatl means “White Woman” in Nahuatl, a reference not only to the way its peaks resemble a reclining woman’s curves, but also to the two glaciers and year-round snow near its summit. Unlike the other two climbs, Iztaccíhuatl can be attempted only from late October to May, during Mexico’s dry season. During the summer, when heavy rains soften the snow and glaciers, the upper stretches of the mountain are unsafe to climb.
My guide and I shouldered our packs, stuffed full of food, water, sleeping bags and extra clothes for the summit, and gripped our hiking staffs. Our ascent began in a breathtakingly green valley, less than four miles but thousands of feet in altitude from the summit. As we hiked, Mr. Buendía explained to me how hiking had grown in Mexico since he became a guide 11 years ago.
“Nowadays there are so many 16-, 17-year-old kids joining hiking clubs and rescue teams,” he said. “Technology has made climbing easier, and now they can see on television what it is like to hike these mountains. They look up, see the summit, and say to themselves: ‘I can climb that.’ ”
After an hour, tall grass gave way to gravel and rock. The countryside opened up below us, a glacial stream running off to our right. Our path turned into sand, then slippery mud as we entered the appropriately named Soapmaker’s Pass. Finally, after three hours, we reached the refuge halfway up the mountain, a silver trailer cemented to the mountain. Like many hiking huts in Mexico, the trailer is available on a first-come-first-served basis. But on this day, we had the barren, amenity-free wooden sleeping platforms to ourselves. As thunderstorms broke on the slopes beneath us, I tucked into my sleeping bag and tried to fall asleep.
After a night of little rest, I ate a ham sandwich frozen stiff by the cold. We donned our heavy coats and left the refuge shortly after dawn, moving up Iztaccíhuatl’s rocky “knee,” at times hand-over-hand. The wind whipped across the ridge, and fog settled on us like a ghost, only to disappear again. We passed a frozen lake as gray-blue as an Arctic sea. After another hour we reached the mountain’s “belly”: a glacier the size of two football fields. As Mr. Buendía walked in front of me, his left foot plunged through the glacier’s crust and into the icy water below. He howled with cold, but trudged on nonetheless.
We continued upward, past a false summit and over a narrow, vertiginous pass. The smell of sulfur washed over us from natural springs below. On either side, steep, snow-covered slopes disappeared into thin air, and I gripped my walking stick tighter. Finally we reached the summit, Iztaccíhuatl’s “breast,” nearly three miles above sea level. Forty miles to the northwest, Mexico City was humming and honking as loudly as ever, but here, above the clouds, there was only the sound of the midday wind, and my shallow breaths.
GETTING THERE
From Mexico City, the easiest way to reach all three mountains is by renting a car. However, Ajusco is accessible via the metro and then a taxi (120 pesos, or $10 at 12 Mexican pesos to the dollar ). Buses leave every 10 minutes for Toluca from Mexico City’s western bus station, Terminal Poniente de Autobuses, and every 15 minutes for Amecameca from the eastern bus terminal, TAPO (Terminal Autobuses Oriente). Once you are in either town, taxis to the mountains are expensive, running as much as 600 pesos round trip.
HIRING A GUIDE
All three hikes require some level of physical fitness but no climbing experience. Ajusco can be climbed year-round, but the best time to hike both Nevado de Toluca and Iztaccíhuatl is between late October and May when the weather is generally dry and mild. Hikers of all skill levels should watch the weather before any attempt, and inexperienced hikers should only ascend Iztaccíhuatl with a professional guide.
Rubén García Fernández runs Cumbre 7 Expeditiones (cumbre7.com.mx) out of Amecameca. For an English-speaking guide, try Mario Andrade (mountainup@hotmail.com) in Mexico City.
Experienced hikers can rent their own equipment from Aguayo Deportes (clubalpinomexicano.com.mx/tienda.htm), a cheap and friendly store in Mexico City’s Roma neighborhood.
PREPARATION
Altitude sickness, or mal de montaña as it is called in Mexico, can be deadly. Visitors unaccustomed to high altitude should spend at least three or four days walking around Mexico City, and Iztaccíhuatl should only be attempted after several easier, acclimatizing hikes.
Article taken from: http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/02/06/travel/06Explorer-MexicoCity.html
Breaking: ROA and SEGO making new piece in Mexico City
From on the scene reporter Gonzalo Gag we got the news that a Street Art duet is taking place on the streets of D.F. right now.
Sego and ROA scope out the wall (photos © and courtesy of Gonzalo Gag) – Please credit.
Article taken from: http://www.brooklynstreetart.com/theblog/?p=17848
The Mind-Blowing Museums of Mexico City – Mexico City, Mexico
Article taken from: http://trans-americas.com/blog/2010/10/themuseums-of-mexico-city/
The Mexican government has recently started bragging that Mexico City has more museums than any other city in the world. We haven’t done a scientific head count, however, we are inclined to agree. Here’s our roundup of the museums we’ve visited in Mexico City, a few we still hope to enjoy, a helpful tip and one burning question.
The only place in Mexico where you’ll see a sculpture of Chac Mool, the Mayan god of rain, of this quality is in the Museo Nacional de Antropología.
Museo Nacional de Antropología
– The mother of all Mexico City museums (and one of the largest, most comprehensive and most respected anthropology museums in the world) sprawls over 100,000 square feet and includes eye-popping artifacts from every epoch of Mexican cultural development. Fuel up for the culture onslaught at the Super Tortas stand near the museum entrance. Just follow the crowds for a great sandwich. Note: this is one of the few museums that does not allow foreigners in for free on Sundays—just Mexican nationals.
One of the many treasures in the Museo Nacional de Antropología is this Aztec Sun Stone (Piedra del Sol). This 25-ton intricately carved basalt slab describing Aztec life is 12 feet in diameter and was carved in the late 1400s, then lost until it was discovered buried beneath the Zócalo in 1790.
The Olmecs created some of the most distinctive art including this emblematic colossal head, seen in the Museo Nacional de Antropología in Mexico City and practically nowhere else.
Museo Rufino Tamayo – Not far from the Anthropology Museum lies this tidy museum houses the artist’s collection and rotating modern art exhibits. When we were there only one small, thin exhibit was open but when all the exhibition spaces are in use this is a great place for cutting edge contemporary art.
Museo de Arte Modern – There’s not an artifact in sight at this museum, also within walking distance of the Anthropology Museum, making it a nice way to look into the future after you’ve gotten your fill of gawking at the past.
This partial reconstruction of the massive Temple of Quetzalcoatl from Teotihuacán is a highlight of the Museo Nacional de Antropología. For scale, note the young girl walking past the display in the lower right hand corner.
Museo Mural Diego Rivera – Diego Rivera’s famous 15m x 4m mural “Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park” is displayed here along with a small collection of surprisingly traditional and contemplative religious art.
Diego Rivera’s famous 15m x 4m mural “Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park” is displayed at the Museo Mural Diego Rivera in Mexico City.
Museo Templo Mayor – Located just off the Zócalo, Mexico City’s main plaza, this indoor/outdoor museum takes visitors along a series of walkways over, through and around areas of excavation which reveal a treasure trove of Aztec artifacts found beneath what is now modern Mexico City. In fact, this was the great city of Tenochtitlan, the seat of the Aztec empire, and the very reason why Cortes and the conquistadors built their church (the Catedral Metropolitana which still stands) and their main city (now Mexico City) on this very spot. It’s an unusual feeling to be admiring ancient artifacts and art with the modern Mexico City skyline all around you.
Mexico City’s Castillo de Chapultepec Museo Nacional de Historia looks like a European castle for a reason.
Castillo de Chapultepec Museo Nacional de Historia - The Castillo de Chapultepec (castle of the grasshopper) is eerily European looking, and for good reason. Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph of Austria lived here with his wife after being put in charge of Mexico by the French (who were angry that Mexico had refused to pay its debts) with the support of Mexicans eager for better government. Now the hilltop castle is a wonderful history museum with fantastic views over Chapultepec Park and right up Avenida Reforma into the city center. The archduke’s swanky living quarters are a treat to see too.
This “Retablo de la Independencia” mural by Juan O’Gorman adorns one of the walls inside the Castillo de Chapultepec Museo Nacional de Historia in Mexico City.
Galeria de Historia Museo del Caracol – Just below the Castillo de Chapultepec National History Museum this clever building, which curves in on itself like snail shell (hence the name), is full of chronologically arranged dioramas depicting major moments in Mexican history. Great for kids and anyone (like us) who could use a crash course in Mexico’s complicated past.
Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes – This beautiful theater in the centro, worthy of a visit just for its architecture, is also a wonderful place to see some of the most iconic works from some of Mexico’s most iconic muralists (including Diego Rivera, Jose Clemente Orozco and David Alfaro Siqueiros) which adorn the theater walls.
This wall gives you some idea why the other name for the Museo de Frida Kahlo, in the artist’s home in Mexico City, is Casa Azul.
Museo de Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul) – For every one thing that Frida Kahlo revealed about herself in her art she seems to have hidden 10 more. Walking around the house she lived in, including her bedroom, almost feels like an invasion. The collection includes pieces of Communist propaganda that Kahlo and Rivera did in addition to the work we know and love. Tickets include entry to the Museo Anahuacalli (see below).
Museum of Mexico City – When we were there this small central museum had an awesome retrospective of memorabilia from the world of lucha libre including information about early female lucheras. There was also a great collection of models and photos chronicling some of architect Luis Barragan’s work in the city.
A whimsical modern take on classic catrinas at the Museo Arte Popular in Mexico City.
Museo Arte Popular – Playful takes on classic Mexican art forms and iconography make this museum, near the Alameda, the perfect antidote if you’re suffering from artifact-overdose. The museum gift shop is also full of affordable and adorable gifts as well as collectible investments in silver jewelry or handmade shawls and other traditional fabrics.
We like to call this piece “Frijole Jesus.” It’s just one example of the playful take on Mexican artistic techniques and imagery on display at the Museo Arte Popular in Mexico City.
Museo Franz Mayer – In addition to the stunning and wide-ranging personal collection of Franz Mayer, when we visited this museum was also exhibiting the 2010 World Press Photo Award winners including awesome work from from photojournalists around the world.
An art car version of Mexico’s national car, the Volkswagen Beetle, at the Museo Arte Popular in Mexico City.
Museo Casa-Estudio Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera – These connected houses/studios in a lovely affluent neighborhood of Mexico City were both home and workplace to the power couple of Mexican contemporary art. It’s full of atmosphere plus you get to see things like Frida’s bathtub–one of the few Frida moments that feels truly intimate. Diego’s studio is bohemian enough to inspire even the most un-artistic among us. Maybe it’s the power of his size 14 shoes left on the floor in the studio…
The exterior of Museo Casa-Estudio Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera in Mexico City.
Museo Nacional de la Estampa – A collection of historically and artistically important pieces of graphic art (estampa means print in Spanish) are housed in a gorgeous building near the Zócalo. We loved the collection of tiny illustrated children’s books.
The sculpture-filled grounds of the Museo Dolores Olmedo in Mexico City.
Museo Dolores Olmedo – Dolores Olmeda is said to have been one of Diego Rivera’s lovers but her eponymous museum and collection reflects a love of Mexico, not just a love of Rivera. The gorgeous and tranquil home and grounds are bursting with pieces from Rivera (and Frida Kahlo) and other classic Mexican artists as well as a pack of Xoloitzcuintlis, an ancient hairless dogs, and a fabulous and informative collection of top-shelf examples of crafts from around Mexico. For us, this museum provided a better (and certainly much more relaxing) overview of the work of Rivera and Kahlo than any other museum we visited in the city. The gift shop is exquisite.
Diego Rivera maintains a commanding presence at the Museo Dolores Olmedo in Mexico City.
One of these hairless Mexican dogs, called Xoloitzcuintlis, at the Museo Dolores Olmeda in Mexico City is a statue. Can you tell which one?
Labortorio Arte de Alameda – Near the centro you will find an old church which is now a cutting edge temple to boundary-pushing multi-media art installations that gleefully tackle taboo subjects. It’s by far the most avant-garde museum we visited in Mexico City and it feels like a gallery/art space that would fit right into the Manhattan or Brooklyn art scenes.
Ones that got away…
Though we’ve visited Mexico City three times (for a total of over three weeks) on our Trans-Americas Journey, most recently to take part in the Bicentennial celebrations including fireworks, President Felipe Calderón’s Grito and other highlights, we have still not manage to visit all of the museums we want to see in the city. Here are a few that got away but which we hope to get to one day!
Though we visited the Guadalupe Basilica (more on that in an upcoming post), the Museo y Santuario de Nuestra Señora Virgen de Guadalupe was closed by the time we got there.
We never made it out to Museo Anahuacalli, the dramatic pyramd-inspired museum designed by Diego Rivera to house his collection of more than 50,000 pieces of pre-Hispanic art.
We managed to be in Mexico City in between shows at the La Coleccion Jumex. The ubiquitous Mexican juice company has an impressive private art collection and hosts temporary shows that are open to the public in a big space just outside central Mexico City as long as you make a reservation and time your visit to coincide with one of their temprorary shows. Otherwise there’s nothing to see as their private collection really is private. We hear Jumex is planning a new museum in town which will be more easily accessible.
And we didn’t call to make a reservation far enough in advance (they require two weeks notice) to gain entry to Casa Luis Barragán which is famous as much for the architecture as the contents. This UNESCO site is the former home of ground-breaking architect Luis Barragán and it’s a must for art and design buffs.
We didn’t make it to the new museum from the world’s richest man (Mexico’s Carlos Slim) for one very good reason: it’s not open yet. But we did drive by the construction site and get an eyeful of the enormous mushroom-like shell of the structure (being designed by Slim’s son-in-law) in the chi-chi Polanco neighborhood of Mexico City. The $750 million new branch of Slim’s Museo Soumaya, named after his deceased wife, is expected to open in November though that seems ambitious to us.
TIP
At most museums in Mexico Sunday is free day for all citizens and often even for foreigners. Pro: the chance to save some money. Con: huge crowds at the most popular museums.
And now, the burning question we promised you: Art or commerce?
Post a comment and let us know what you think about the fact that the Mexican government just issued a brand new 500 peso note—picturing Diego Rivera on one side and Frida Kahlo on the other.
Article taken from: http://trans-americas.com/blog/2010/10/themuseums-of-mexico-city/
Roma rises again @ Mexico City
City travel
Roma rises again
Article taken from: http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/travel/roma-rises-again/article1630610/
Colonia Roma is loved for its beaux arts style homes, wide leafy streets and public squares. Keith Dannemiller for The Globe and Mail
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A revolution and an earthquake haven’t been able to flatten the creative spirit in this Mexico City neighbourhood.
David Agren
MEXICO CITY — Special to Globe and Mail Update Published on Tuesday, Jul. 06, 2010 4:03PM EDT Last updated on Tuesday, Jul. 06, 2010 6:21PM EDT
The Colonia Roma unfolded early in the past century as an aristocratic haunt of wide boulevards and stately homes built in the beaux arts style – until the Mexican revolution of 1910 halted development.
A less bourgeois set arrived shortly thereafter, which included many artists, writers and politically minded folk (Naked Lunch author William S. Burroughs and retired Cuban leader Fidel Castro among them), earning the neighbourhood a lasting reputation for well-cultured denizens. Then, in 1985, a devastating 8.1 magnitude earthquake rocked La Roma, flattening buildings and displacing residents for years.
La Roma gradually rebuilt. Many of the old families moved back, while a new wave of creative types followed.
Today, slightly more than a century after its founding, La Roma is coming full-circle, rediscovering its aristocratic roots. Socialites and the moneyed set are returning – bodyguards in tow – chic restaurants and lounges are opening, and speculators have ignited a real estate boom.
Much of the appeal owes to its central location, leafy streets, architectural gems and several expansive squares – including Plaza Rio de Janeiro, home to fountains, a replica statue of Michelangelo’s David and soccer-playing youths.
The appeal is also thanks to an eclectic mix of lowbrow and highbrow establishments, easily visible when strolling Calle Colima. This street is book-ended by a funeral parlour and a smoke-belching hamburger cart, and is home to flower shops, a skateboard store, boutiques bursting with blue jeans and funky T-shirts, chi-chi restaurants and several public and private art galleries.
All the changes in La Roma invite comparisons to the adjacent Colonia Condesa, a fashionable and popular neighbourhood at risk of becoming overrun with cookie-cutter developments, Argentine grills and Starbucks.
Roma locals worry that their neighbourhood will move upmarket too quickly and become another La Condesa, which many artists abandoned because of rising rents. But antiques dealer Emmanuel Picault, owner of the shop Chic by Accident, is more sanguine about La Roma’s future. “It’s evolving,” he said.
At La Valise you’ll find a truly random assortment of unique curios.
Re-Pack your bag
As the name suggests, La Valise draws inspiration from items stuffed into a suitcase. This bazaar delivers a truly random assortment of goods, which includes classic books, Spanish-language vinyl records and pink boxing gloves. Zacatecas 126; 52-55-5564-9013
Eclectic artwork and furniture for sale at the interior design store, Chic by Accident.
No accident
French expatriate Emmanuel Picault has scoured markets and private collections across the capital – and beyond – for the past decade in search of rare finds inspired by Mexican designers. Current items on display at Chic by Accident include armchairs designed by famed architect Luis Barragan, an oversized papier-mâché skull and clay arboles de vida (trees of life), which depict the story of creation. Alvaro Obregon 49; 52 55-5511-1312 www.chicbyaccident.com
Surrealist pop art fills the shelves at Guru boutique.
Get smart
Guru, a design store and gallery, promises “lowbrow, surrealistic pop” and retro offerings – and it largely delivers, stocking everything from ceramic unicorns to notebooks adorned with lucha libre imagery to World Cup-inspired tarot cards. Colima 143; 52-55-5533-7140
Mexican fashion sense
Dime – pronounced “dee-me” and meaning “tell me” – highlights the creation of young Mexican fashion designers, whose inspiration is frequently culled from national icons, landmarks and myths. Examples include oversized bags emblazoned with Our Lady of Guadalupe and T-shirts featuring images of temperamental soccer star Cuauhtemoc Blanco, who’s considered a demigod in some areas. Alvaro Obregon 185; 52-55-2454-6790; www.dimetienda.com
Tough name, cool clothing
The boutique Sicario draws its name from the Spanish word for the toughs employed by narcotics-trafficking cartels. Little about the merchandise – jeans, funky T-shirts, loads of sneakers and even vintage bicycles – suggests criminal links, however. Sicario also promotes DJs and provides information on shows. Colima 124; 52-55-5511-0396; www.sicario.tv
A popular hamburger cart serves burgers with roasted pineapple.
Street fare
Perhaps the best street food in Mexico City, hamburguesas a la parrilla are served at a popular grill parked on Calle Colima. A double cheeseburger with a roasted pineapple ring costs about $2.50 and is best washed down with a bottle of Jarritos brand pop. The tamarind flavour is sublime. Corner of Colima and Morelia
All in the family
The arrival of Sobrinos (nieces and nephews) marked La Roma’s upmarket ascent and it quickly became popular with the young and wealthy – known locally as “fresas” (slang for “snobs”). The most recent outlet in an empire of bistros named for family connections – including Primos (cousins) and Tios (uncles and aunts) – Sobrinos has won as much fame for catering to the glitterati as its Spanish-inspired fare and decor. Alvaro Obregon 110; 52-55-5264-7466
Keep it simple
A long-time La Roma favourite, NonSolo occupies a hole in the wall across from the fountains of Plaza Luis Cabrera. This Italian eatery boasts a simple menu of paninis and salads and a pleasing wine list. Another location one-block north on Alvaro Obregon offers more tables and larger menu, along with a cozy upstairs lounge. Plaza Luis Cabrera 10; 52-55-3096-5128; www.nonsolo.com.mx
First a bank, then a brothel, Hotel Brick opened earlier this year.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Brick Orizaba 95; 52-55-5525-1100; www.hotelbrick.com. Once the abode of an English banker and later a brothel, this boutique hotel has drawn fawning reviews and a clientele of socialites since opening earlier this year. Guests can belly up to a lobby bar, sip cocktails in the ground-floor lounge, nosh on wood-fired pizzas in a lonchería (lunchroom) or dine in the brasserie, which specializes in Provençal cuisine. The 17 rooms and suites are modern in design. From $230 per night
Hostel Home Tabasco 303; 52-55-5511-1683; www.hostelhome.com.mx. A pioneer in the Mexico City hostel scene, Hostel Home sleeps 22 (there are no private rooms) in a former mansion with hardwood floors, spacious common areas, free wireless Internet and a kitchen. Owner Juancho Nunez moonlights as a DJ and always extends performance invitations to guests. $12 a night, breakfast included.
Mexico City’s rich heritage welcomes lovers of culture
By Ellen Creager, McClatchy-Tribune News Service
Visitors on Mexico City’s main Zocalo, or town square, crowd into the National Palace; in the background is the Metropolitan Cathedral, built by the Spanish in the 1700s. Photograph by: Ellen Creager, McClatchy-Tribune News Service
MEXICO CITY - Go ahead and use Diego Rivera as excuse. Mention murals as the reason you’re coming.
But get down here right away, art lovers, and soak in the atmosphere of one of the most interesting cities in the world.
Mexico’s capital city is buzzing with 22 million people. Known for its restaurants, nightlife and traffic, it is surprisingly clean, dignified and gracious, its intentions serious, its attitude worlds away from tourist spots like Cancun or Los Cabos.
It also is 500 to 2,000 miles south of Mexico’s dangerous U.S. border towns.
“Mexico City is the real Mexico,” says Fernando Ledesma, arts expert and guide in the city. “It has four cultural World Heritage sites — more than any other city in the world. It has 160 museums. It has the richest cultural heritage in all Latin America.”
In the 1920s to 1950s, muralists flourished here, their astonishing paintings covering buildings and walls all over the city. They told stories of dictators and emperors, Indians and gods, elites and rebels — all depicted in muralists’ art as swept along by history as this nation spun from ancient cultures to the Aztecs, Spanish and revolution.
The most famous muralist, of course, is Diego Rivera. He is known in the United States as the creator of “Detroit Industry,” the towering four-wall masterpiece painted in 1932-33 at the Detroit Institute of Arts.
But here in Mexico City, you can see so much more.
The Dolores Olmedo Museum has 150 Rivera works, including masterful paintings he did in Europe and Russia. The National Anthropology Museum has stunning ancient art of the Americas. Here in the city, you can see Rivera’s studio, his paintbrushes, his first mural, and his wife Frida Kahlo’s house. You also can see the work of other muralists who put Mexico on the art map.
The city also has a fine artists’ bazaar, modern art museum, colonial architecture and scenic churches (many tilting due to the alarmingly soft ground).
Let other people go to Mexico’s beaches. For those who love art, this is the place.
In Mexico, arts tours usually focus on places such as Oaxaca and Chiapas (textiles and folk art), Jalisco (pottery, blown glass and artists’ markets) and Mexico City (murals and archaeology).
Stephanie Schneiderman of Ann Arbor, Mich., who grew up in Mexico City, runs art and textile tours of Mexico through TiaStephanie Tours. Her clients want to be educated, not just entertained, she says. She runs tours for museum, art and textile groups — but also for art lovers.
“They are artists or collectors or just appreciators,” says Schneiderman. But not necessarily experts.
Mexican muralism was supported by a fragile government that had just overthrown its dictator. The art was big, and so was its message.
“The murals were public, political and monumental,” says Schneiderman. “It was a move to recapture Mexico’s national identity, with the idea that the real people of the country were the rural, indigenous population. It glorified and even romanticized these elements.”
Rivera may have been an art prodigy, but his forte was the broad canvas of the mural. He learned fresco painting in Italy and applied it to subjects back home that spoke to him as a Mexican outraged by injustice. Yet he also was a commercial painter. He hired himself out for everything from murals in Detroit and San Francisco to portraits of rich Mexican women.
When Rivera was alive, female tourists came to Mexico to meet him and hope for more intimate contact. Today, his celebrity hasn’t dimmed.
One popular starting point is “The Creation” at the Colegio de San Ildefonso school auditorium in Mexico City’s historic center. It was Rivera’s first mural, in 1922.
“Every day, people come to see that mural,” says curator Eri Camara, who describes the semi-religious mural as lacking Rivera’s later blatant political tone and with “a freshness; the ideology is not overt.” In addition, tourists who have seen the movie “Frida” visit because it’s the spot where Rivera and future wife, painter Frida Kahlo, met when she was just 14.
Another painting with a story behind it is “Portrait of Dolores Olmedo” at the Dolores Olmedo Museum. She was a wealthy arts benefactor who took a shine to Rivera and collected his work in the 1950s — after she had him paint her as a whimsical Mexican maid holding a bowl of fruit. (Note to academia: Somebody should investigate why women had a huge soft spot for Rivera, even though he was approximately as handsome as a frog.)
With 150 fantastic Rivera works and 26 from Frida Kahlo, the Dolores Olmedo Museum is an imperative.
The most famous mural s in Mexico City are at the National Palace and at Palacio de Bellas Artes. As politics, the murals’ unwavering theme is the glory of ancient man, brutality of empire and mistrust of capitalism. The murals contain lots of blood, swords, a cast of thousands and naive socialist symbols. But as art, they are amazing; my favorite is the Rivera mural “The Great City of Tenochtitlan” and the Jorge Gonzalez Camarena mural “Liberation of Humanity.”
Drive by the UNAM, Mexico’s national university campus, and see the library designed by architect Juan O’Gorman. Its entire exterior is a mural, a pattern that looks a little like a textile weaving. Over at the National Museum of Anthropology, you can see the major piece of art of ancient Mexico, the Sun Stone.
And, oh, I forgot. Did I mention that Mexico City has an ancient city just north of town? Teotihuacan, with the Sun Pyramid and Moon Pyramid, thrived from 100 to 750 AD. It was already a huge ruin when the Aztecs got there in 1300 AD. Unearthed in the 1960s, its art and architecture show a rigorously planned city where as many as 200,000 people lived. That is pretty humbling to the modern man who thinks our own civilization will last forever.
Civilizations don’t, of course.
But art does.
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IF YOU GO:
Mexico City is nothing like you imagine — it’s better. Its downtown is clean, culturally rich and hip, with elegant shopping, museums, churches, gracious tree-lined boulevards, colonial architecture, busy streets and Aztec ruins beside modern buildings. Its Zona Rosa district is popular for nightlife. Its Zocalo, or town square, is the largest in the Americas.
LODGING:
KH Suites: Apart-Hotel services at Polanco and Lomas de Chapultepec. 1 to 3 bedroom fully Furnished and Equipped Suites, as well as houses. Perfect for families traveling (www.khsuites.com)*
Hotel Maria Cristina: Moderate hotel popular with business and leisure travelers in good location. (www.hotelmariacristina.com.mx)
Casa Gonzalez: Famous budget bed and breakfast in good location in the Colonia Cuauhtemoc neighborhood. (www.hotelcasagonzalez.com)
El Emporio: Small luxury hotel on Paseo de la Reforma. (www.hotelesemporio.com/cdmexico)
The Four Seasons: Expensive but high quality lodging. (www.fourseasons.com/mexico)
RESTAURANTS: Stephanie Schneiderman of TiaStephanie Tours grew up in Mexico City. Her favorite restaurants:
Fonda el Refugio: Traditional Mexican food, best margaritas in the city. (Liverpool 166, Zona Rosa)
El Cardenal: Elegant old-fashioned service; two branches, one in historic center (Juarez 70, Col. Centro) and another at the Hilton Alameda Park.
El Bajio: Traditional Mexican food; now a chain with several branches around town. (www.carnitaselbajio.com.mx)
Restaurante Pujol: Very high-end contemporary dining in the Polanco district; chef is Enrique Olvera. (Francisco Petrarca 254, Col. Polanco)
Los Panchos: Best carnitas (pork tacos) in the city. (Tolstoi No. 9 Entre Leibintz y Dante, Col. Anzures)
Sanborn’s: For breakfast. Old department store in the historic House of Tiles downtown has elegant, high-ceiling restaurant. (Calle Madero 4, Col. Centro)
SHOPPING: El Bazar del Sabado: Open only on Saturdays, fantastic for high quality art, crafts, jewelry and textiles.
MONEY: About 12 pesos to the Canadian dollar. Plenty of ATMs available.
SAFETY: Take the usual precautions you would against pickpockets. Don’t take gypsy taxis; have your hotel or restaurant call one for you. Like in any large city, stay in well-trod tourist areas, and don’t wander around alone at night.
HEALTH: Mexico City has a mild climate because it is 2,200 metres above sea level. Some people take time to get acclimated to the elevation. Don’t drink tap water; most hotels provide bottled water. Pollution levels have improved; as long as a breeze is blowing, it’s pretty clear and you can see the gorgeous mountains that encircle the city.
